View Full Version : Manual transmission oil and noise
speedbump
07-30-2005, 06:58 AM
VW says to use synthetic G50 75w/90 in my 020 manual tranny, would it hurt anything to use a synthetic GL5 80w/140? (Of the oil I can get at cost, this is the only synthetic gear lube I can get)
I have noticed a noise coming from the tranny, it's a clicking/scraping sound that increases in speed with the as I accelerate. At first, shifting, coasting, accelerating, and decelerating didn't change the sound, but now it goes away when decelerating but it still does it when coasting and accelerating, oh, and turning has no effect on it.
I'm thinking it may be an inboard CV, is there anything else I should be looking in to?
This is in a 96 Jetta Trek 2.0, 5 spd.
jettadude
07-30-2005, 03:46 PM
i had the kinda same thing. i thought it was my diff. check to see if your whells are on tight. really this might be part of the prob. oh and you need to use hypoid oil i think. there is a difference. im almost sure of it.
GoodDayForADrive
07-31-2005, 07:28 AM
I just recently changed my transmission fluid to GM Syncromesh, it's wonderful stuff.
jettadude
07-31-2005, 10:23 PM
yea but its expencive as hell
Provocyclist
08-01-2005, 10:07 AM
Id chech your CV's first, its alot cheaper than a trans rebuild
Mr_Diesel
08-02-2005, 04:27 AM
This sounds like a wheel bearing to me. A failing wheel bearing sounds a lot like what you describe. The sound of a failing wheel bearing can appear as though it's coming from anywhere in the engine bay... The sound changes progressivly as the bearing gets worse. Once a bearing starts to go, it can fail in a matter of 500 miles... Sooo check it soon. Jack up the vehicle so the wheels are off the ground. Push and pull the wheel. If there is any movement (or "play" as some like to call it) then the wheel bearing is going bad. VW Parts Place Michigan sells the entire hub assembly for almost all VW's so you can actually replace the wheel bearing yourself at a cost of about 130 bucks. Without the need of a bearing press.
Let me know how this goes.
if you can get the entire hub assembly do it. pressing the bearings in is a pain in the ass
burn_your_money
08-02-2005, 12:08 PM
I think if you grab the wheel at 3 and 9 and it moves its the tie rods, but if you grab it at 12 and 6 and it moves its the bearings.
My cousins bearings in his rabbit are shot and have been for at least 3000 miles. I guess we are getting lucky, it's loud and laggy as hell.
Mr_Diesel
08-03-2005, 01:08 AM
I think if you grab the wheel at 3 and 9 and it moves its the tie rods, but if you grab it at 12 and 6 and it moves its the bearings.
My cousins bearings in his rabbit are shot and have been for at least 3000 miles. I guess we are getting lucky, it's loud and laggy as hell.
If the tie rods are bad, it won't move much... If the bearing is bad it can move a lot...
Bad wheel bearings will wear the hell out of your tire. If the bearing fails, the wheel can sieze, and this could be fatal if you are on the interstate...
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