Mr_Diesel
10-14-2004, 11:02 PM
Okay... There is going to be a lot of information here... None of it will be in any particular order. It will be YOUR responsibility to obtain an engine... This includes pulling it any everything. You are smart enough to know, what can and can't be cut off with a cutting torch. Get a note pad and take notes... Or print off and use a hiliter (or however you spell it, lol).
What you'll need:
1. Complete diesel engine. (If you use a diesel engine from a MkI you will need to take a disc grinder and grind off that little round engine mount thing on the passenger side of the motor... This will NOT fit in the MkII engine bay unless you grind this off. It can't be removed because it's welded to your injector pump bracket.)
2. Complete gasoline car to take the diesel engine. (you'll use a lot of parts off the gas motor
3. Engine puller. A-Frame or Cherry Picker.
4. T-40 Torx socket. This is used to remove intake manifolds and a wash of other bolts required to remove an engine.
5. 6mm 12 point bolt removal socket/tool. This is used to remove the bolts from the drive axels.
6. Complete 4mm to 20mm metric socket set. Metric wrenches are helpful too.
7. Vice Grips. VERY helpful in removal of axel shafs.
8. BIG hammer.
9. Socket wrench extensions for whatever size sockets you are using. This becomes manditory when installing and removing motor mount bolts. The longer the better... I was using a 18 inch extension.
Other than the above mentioned, you'll need misc tools to do misc things.... Most people can jimmy rig something with tools laying around the shop, but the above mentioned are MANDITORY to have around before you start, because you WILL need them.
I am going to start by saying removal of the radiator, condensor headlight/radiator mount is EXTREMELY helpful. If you plan on saving your airconditioning, too bad. Extremely big hassle, and probably wont end up working due to difference in mounting brackets. Have an authorized shop remove the coolant from the system before you take your condensor out.
Next, start removing all wires and hoses. Label them with masking tape... Beware, greasy surfaces will not take to masking tape very well. There is nothing worse than having all your labels fall off! 8O Don't forget to remove the speedo cable, oxygen sensor wire (if applicable) negative battery cable. LEAVE the clutch cable until the engine is suspended in the air... It's a lot easier to remove the clutch cable when it's in the air and under less tension.
Jack up your car and support it with jack stands. The higher up the car is the easier it will be to remove the axels. Get your 6mm 12 point tool and climb under the car. Remove all the bolts from the passenger side drive shaft. Hint: Use a small hammer to hammer the 12 point tool into place. These bolts will have excessive amounts of grease on them and if you don't get your tool all the way into the bolt, you WILL strip the bolt or dammage your tool, then you are totally SCREWED. I would even go to lengths as getting some grease solvent or WD-40 and clean out those bolts before you attempt to remove them. You can remove the passenger side drive shaft pretty easy cause you'll have the gears of the transmission to assist you in preventing the shafts from turning when you attempt to take out the bolts. Once all the bolts are out, get your hammer and gently hit that round thing until it breaks free from the transmission. It will be apparent what you need to do. NEXT, take the tire off the drivers side. This will make it easier to remove the other bolts from the drivers side drive shaft. Use VICE GRIPS to clamp onto your rotor to prevent them from turning when you remove the bolts.
Now, hook a small chain up to the engine. Put one end on one side of the head, and the other end on the other side of the head... There are 2 holes that were meant for this. Raise your engine puller up slightly so that there is tension on the chains. There are 3 bolts holding the mount behind the engine on the passenger side... Remove those first. Next remove that one large bolt that is holding the transmission down... This is located directly under the master cylinder and will be difficult to access without bending the brake lines a little. Remove the 3 bolts from the starter and take out the starter motor... this will, in turn, unbolt the 3rd and final engine mount.
Don't forget to unbolt the the downpipe from the cat converter.... Just take out the exhaust manifold and downpipe with the motor... it's lots easier... Just be sure that as you raise up the motor, the downpipe doesnt catch on any heat shields, or more importantly, the BRAKE lines... I almost messed up my brake lines.
Begin raisign up the motor... Trial an error in positioning and wiggling the motor to get it to come out... Hint: If you raise up the motor in such a way that the motor will come out on an angle (passenger side on the upside of the angle) you should be able to clear the frame with the crankshaft pulley. This should make it easy to get the transmission out. DON'T FORGET to remove the clutch cable now... It will be apparent how to get the cable off. DON'T LOSE the pieces that hold the cable to the fork.
That's basically the whole jist of an engine swap. Install the engine in the exact opposite order.
When the diesel engine is in the car, you'll need to consider a few things. I used an engine from an 84 rabbit. Sensor locations and types are all different on a 91 jetta vs and 84 rabbit. All I did was swap out all the sensors from the gas engine to the diesel engine. This included:
1. Oil filter flange(1 oil pressure sender)
2. Front radiator to head coolant flange (2 sensors)
3. Side flange on the head (1 sensor)
You won't be able to correctly mount the radiator to head flange. It'll have to go upside down. You'll have to mess with your glow plug bus wire to get this to fit on. You will have to jimmy rig a coolant hose to run from this flange down to the water pump. You'll see what I mean when you get to this point.
All diesel engines have an electronic fuel shut off valve... I have yet to figure out a way to supply power to this at time of ignition. I'm probably going to end up rigging up a switch. Don't need to run resistors or anything, this is just a 12 volt valve, low amperage. This is located on top of the injector pump just above the 4 fuel outputs below the accellerator assembly.
I have yet to figure out how to run the glow plugs. Worst case scenario, I'll have to run a sileonoid to the glow plugs and put a pushbutton in the cab. If you did some electronic schematic research on the glow plug relay and harness you can probably rig something up. I invision having 3 or 4 switches that have to be flicked before the engnie will start... LOL... Just to liven up things a little bit.
Another problem comes up with the fuel system. ENSURE ALL gasoline has been purged before you connect the injector pump back up fuel lines. A diesel can run reliably on a 90% diesel 10% gasoline mixture... So it's not crucial that you get EVERY drop out of there, but atleast drain the majority out.... I have yet to determine what I will have to do with the fuel pumps. I am going to leave them in there and see what happens... Worst case scenario, the engine gets over fueled, or fuel might leak out of some of the weaker gaskets and hoses on the injector pump... Keep an eye out for that. They say you have to replace fuel lines... I don't see a reason to. Gasoline is just as corrosive if not worse than diesel fuel... If these fuel lines are inaddequte for diesel fuel, you'll know... Keep a close eye on these lines for leakage and becoming brittle. Having an electronic fuel pump in your diesel might actually be beneficial. This will aid in the repriming of the pump, and will likely cause the engine to become easier to start. Any excess fuel that is pumped into the injector pump will be kindly returned to the tank via the return fuel line, so don't worry about that.... I'll let you know if I run into any problems.
The fuel tank level sender should continue to function if left alone. This is half the reason I don't want to remove my auxillary pump is because this sender is located on the same bracket as this pump... Just leave well enough alone, and it'll all bd good.
As goes for the gasoline intake manifold (if you are installed in NA instead of a Turbo diesel, then you can use a gasoline intake manifold) Problem with this is, the gas manifold has a throttle in it.. Use your T-40 to remove the throttle body from the manifold. On that side there will be 4 screws. Unscrew them and the throttle plates should slide right out. Reinstall the throttle body. Bolt it up to the engine, and you are back to square one. You can now use your original gasoline engine airbox and pipe.
If you are using your existing exhaust sytem DON'T FORGET a diesel will clog up your cat converter in a matter of 300 miles... Make it a priority to get to the exhaust shop and have him straight pipe that cat before you get your emissions done. Just tell him that you converted the car to a diesel which does not require a cat converter (if they give you crap)
This is all I can think of tonight... If you have any questions or need any clarification about this, please feel free to reply to this post.
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0472.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0473.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0474.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0475.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0476.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0477.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0478.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0481.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0482.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0483.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0484.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0485.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0486.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0487.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0491.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0492.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0493.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0494.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0495.jpg
What you'll need:
1. Complete diesel engine. (If you use a diesel engine from a MkI you will need to take a disc grinder and grind off that little round engine mount thing on the passenger side of the motor... This will NOT fit in the MkII engine bay unless you grind this off. It can't be removed because it's welded to your injector pump bracket.)
2. Complete gasoline car to take the diesel engine. (you'll use a lot of parts off the gas motor
3. Engine puller. A-Frame or Cherry Picker.
4. T-40 Torx socket. This is used to remove intake manifolds and a wash of other bolts required to remove an engine.
5. 6mm 12 point bolt removal socket/tool. This is used to remove the bolts from the drive axels.
6. Complete 4mm to 20mm metric socket set. Metric wrenches are helpful too.
7. Vice Grips. VERY helpful in removal of axel shafs.
8. BIG hammer.
9. Socket wrench extensions for whatever size sockets you are using. This becomes manditory when installing and removing motor mount bolts. The longer the better... I was using a 18 inch extension.
Other than the above mentioned, you'll need misc tools to do misc things.... Most people can jimmy rig something with tools laying around the shop, but the above mentioned are MANDITORY to have around before you start, because you WILL need them.
I am going to start by saying removal of the radiator, condensor headlight/radiator mount is EXTREMELY helpful. If you plan on saving your airconditioning, too bad. Extremely big hassle, and probably wont end up working due to difference in mounting brackets. Have an authorized shop remove the coolant from the system before you take your condensor out.
Next, start removing all wires and hoses. Label them with masking tape... Beware, greasy surfaces will not take to masking tape very well. There is nothing worse than having all your labels fall off! 8O Don't forget to remove the speedo cable, oxygen sensor wire (if applicable) negative battery cable. LEAVE the clutch cable until the engine is suspended in the air... It's a lot easier to remove the clutch cable when it's in the air and under less tension.
Jack up your car and support it with jack stands. The higher up the car is the easier it will be to remove the axels. Get your 6mm 12 point tool and climb under the car. Remove all the bolts from the passenger side drive shaft. Hint: Use a small hammer to hammer the 12 point tool into place. These bolts will have excessive amounts of grease on them and if you don't get your tool all the way into the bolt, you WILL strip the bolt or dammage your tool, then you are totally SCREWED. I would even go to lengths as getting some grease solvent or WD-40 and clean out those bolts before you attempt to remove them. You can remove the passenger side drive shaft pretty easy cause you'll have the gears of the transmission to assist you in preventing the shafts from turning when you attempt to take out the bolts. Once all the bolts are out, get your hammer and gently hit that round thing until it breaks free from the transmission. It will be apparent what you need to do. NEXT, take the tire off the drivers side. This will make it easier to remove the other bolts from the drivers side drive shaft. Use VICE GRIPS to clamp onto your rotor to prevent them from turning when you remove the bolts.
Now, hook a small chain up to the engine. Put one end on one side of the head, and the other end on the other side of the head... There are 2 holes that were meant for this. Raise your engine puller up slightly so that there is tension on the chains. There are 3 bolts holding the mount behind the engine on the passenger side... Remove those first. Next remove that one large bolt that is holding the transmission down... This is located directly under the master cylinder and will be difficult to access without bending the brake lines a little. Remove the 3 bolts from the starter and take out the starter motor... this will, in turn, unbolt the 3rd and final engine mount.
Don't forget to unbolt the the downpipe from the cat converter.... Just take out the exhaust manifold and downpipe with the motor... it's lots easier... Just be sure that as you raise up the motor, the downpipe doesnt catch on any heat shields, or more importantly, the BRAKE lines... I almost messed up my brake lines.
Begin raisign up the motor... Trial an error in positioning and wiggling the motor to get it to come out... Hint: If you raise up the motor in such a way that the motor will come out on an angle (passenger side on the upside of the angle) you should be able to clear the frame with the crankshaft pulley. This should make it easy to get the transmission out. DON'T FORGET to remove the clutch cable now... It will be apparent how to get the cable off. DON'T LOSE the pieces that hold the cable to the fork.
That's basically the whole jist of an engine swap. Install the engine in the exact opposite order.
When the diesel engine is in the car, you'll need to consider a few things. I used an engine from an 84 rabbit. Sensor locations and types are all different on a 91 jetta vs and 84 rabbit. All I did was swap out all the sensors from the gas engine to the diesel engine. This included:
1. Oil filter flange(1 oil pressure sender)
2. Front radiator to head coolant flange (2 sensors)
3. Side flange on the head (1 sensor)
You won't be able to correctly mount the radiator to head flange. It'll have to go upside down. You'll have to mess with your glow plug bus wire to get this to fit on. You will have to jimmy rig a coolant hose to run from this flange down to the water pump. You'll see what I mean when you get to this point.
All diesel engines have an electronic fuel shut off valve... I have yet to figure out a way to supply power to this at time of ignition. I'm probably going to end up rigging up a switch. Don't need to run resistors or anything, this is just a 12 volt valve, low amperage. This is located on top of the injector pump just above the 4 fuel outputs below the accellerator assembly.
I have yet to figure out how to run the glow plugs. Worst case scenario, I'll have to run a sileonoid to the glow plugs and put a pushbutton in the cab. If you did some electronic schematic research on the glow plug relay and harness you can probably rig something up. I invision having 3 or 4 switches that have to be flicked before the engnie will start... LOL... Just to liven up things a little bit.
Another problem comes up with the fuel system. ENSURE ALL gasoline has been purged before you connect the injector pump back up fuel lines. A diesel can run reliably on a 90% diesel 10% gasoline mixture... So it's not crucial that you get EVERY drop out of there, but atleast drain the majority out.... I have yet to determine what I will have to do with the fuel pumps. I am going to leave them in there and see what happens... Worst case scenario, the engine gets over fueled, or fuel might leak out of some of the weaker gaskets and hoses on the injector pump... Keep an eye out for that. They say you have to replace fuel lines... I don't see a reason to. Gasoline is just as corrosive if not worse than diesel fuel... If these fuel lines are inaddequte for diesel fuel, you'll know... Keep a close eye on these lines for leakage and becoming brittle. Having an electronic fuel pump in your diesel might actually be beneficial. This will aid in the repriming of the pump, and will likely cause the engine to become easier to start. Any excess fuel that is pumped into the injector pump will be kindly returned to the tank via the return fuel line, so don't worry about that.... I'll let you know if I run into any problems.
The fuel tank level sender should continue to function if left alone. This is half the reason I don't want to remove my auxillary pump is because this sender is located on the same bracket as this pump... Just leave well enough alone, and it'll all bd good.
As goes for the gasoline intake manifold (if you are installed in NA instead of a Turbo diesel, then you can use a gasoline intake manifold) Problem with this is, the gas manifold has a throttle in it.. Use your T-40 to remove the throttle body from the manifold. On that side there will be 4 screws. Unscrew them and the throttle plates should slide right out. Reinstall the throttle body. Bolt it up to the engine, and you are back to square one. You can now use your original gasoline engine airbox and pipe.
If you are using your existing exhaust sytem DON'T FORGET a diesel will clog up your cat converter in a matter of 300 miles... Make it a priority to get to the exhaust shop and have him straight pipe that cat before you get your emissions done. Just tell him that you converted the car to a diesel which does not require a cat converter (if they give you crap)
This is all I can think of tonight... If you have any questions or need any clarification about this, please feel free to reply to this post.
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0472.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0473.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0474.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0475.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0476.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0477.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0478.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0481.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0482.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0483.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0484.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0485.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0486.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0487.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0491.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0492.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0493.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0494.jpg
http://www.dubnetworks.net/images/dieselswap/IMG_0495.jpg