View Full Version : Oil pump problems?!
jettadude
10-11-2004, 07:48 PM
yea i dunno what my oil problem is. i think it might be the sensor or my oil pump is about to take a dump. does anyone know the signs of a oil pump about to go? my car has 117,812 miles and i think the pump is stock. but still i don't have the money or time to put in a new one. any help here, this is stoping me from driving the car at this point.
burn_your_money
10-11-2004, 09:18 PM
I don't know but I might be able to send you an oil pump for the price of shipping. It depends on the lifters though. What grade of oil are you running? What is your car doing?
Slalom
10-11-2004, 09:28 PM
I don't know but I might be able to send you an oil pump for the price of shipping. It depends on the lifters though. What grade of oil are you running? What is your car doing?
ya we need more detail... it could be either of the 2 sensors, or because your engine is older and tired, you arent running thick enuff oil for it to make sufficent pressure at the top of the head...
miamiDaveGLi
10-11-2004, 09:31 PM
I don't know but I might be able to send you an oil pump for the price of shipping. It depends on the lifters though. What grade of oil are you running? What is your car doing?
ya we need more detail... it could be either of the 2 sensors, or because your engine is older and tired, you arent running thick enuff oil for it to make sufficent pressure at the top of the head...
i usually run 20-50 here year round and it does great!
burn_your_money
10-11-2004, 09:45 PM
My dad always runs 10-40 in the summer and 5-40 in the winter I think.
Gotturbo
10-11-2004, 11:40 PM
You only have 117,000 on your car?? The TDI already has 135,000 on it!
GoodDayForADrive
10-11-2004, 11:44 PM
You only have 117,000 on your car?? The TDI already has 135,000 on it!
I'm at 110,000 he has good mileage for that year
jettadude
10-12-2004, 12:04 AM
i just did a full oil change today. i put in 20W-50. when the car gets warm i can rev it higher without the buzzer comming on but it still comes on. remember guys my pressure sensor is from my cabby so i can have the gauge. im going to put the stock 1 back in tomm. and see if that changes anything. but please keep it comming i need to get the car back on the road asap!
GoodDayForADrive
10-12-2004, 12:07 AM
i just did a full oil change today. i put in 20W-50. when the car gets warm i can rev it higher without the buzzer comming on but it still comes on. remember guys my pressure sensor is from my cabby so i can have the gauge. im going to put the stock 1 back in tomm. and see if that changes anything. but please keep it comming i need to get the car back on the road asap!
Last time I tried to do an oil change, I couldn't get the filter off, it was done by a dealer, so I just put the oil in, cause it had already been drained. I'm gonna drive like 1-2k miles on it, and then change it. I gotta go somewhere and have them loosen it, cause it's ridiculous.
jettadude
10-12-2004, 12:18 AM
yea i know. i put the new filter back on just as tight. i didn't put back on a bosh or bann filter on. i put on a fram extra tough filter on. i know ive heard it wont hold pressure and stuff. but my friend is a VW teck and he told me it doesn't matter. as long as its on tight it will hold.
GoodDayForADrive
10-12-2004, 12:19 AM
yea i know. i put the new filter back on just as tight. i didn't put back on a bosh or bann filter on. i put on a fram extra tough filter on. i know ive heard it wont hold pressure and stuff. but my friend is a VW teck and he told me it doesn't matter. as long as its on tight it will hold.
My dad has put his filters on hand tight since his first car and never had a problem.
jettadude
10-12-2004, 12:24 AM
well ive got to find out what it is soon~
Gotturbo
10-12-2004, 08:59 AM
We always put the oil filters on tight on my dads cummins diesel trucks... You cant tell me any 4cyl engine has more oil pressure than one of those.
miamiDaveGLi
10-12-2004, 09:17 AM
:evil: :evil: :evil: i hate getting that damn filter out its such a BIT**
i need to do a change too. put the original sensor back in and tell us if it helps 8)
burn_your_money
10-12-2004, 10:17 AM
Are you using the oil filter wrench to remove the filter or just your hands? I think my dad just snugs them up. I"ve only changed the oil once and he did most of the filter.
Optigman
10-12-2004, 09:37 PM
jettadude-
What year car? I know for a fact that many aftermarket sensors for oil pressure and temp are notorious for sending awkward readings. I know that in older (pre-'88) it is best to use OEM sensors for oil. I would be inclined to guess that you do not have a pressure problem, it's the sensor. I wouldn't ignore this however, I'm just saying that it has been my experience along with local mechanics that this is the case. Just like when VW ignored the oil consumption problem, where poor piston rings were installed or some rings installed upside down and caused engines to burn more than 1 quart per 1,000 miles (after about '93).
You don't want to starve that engine, a friend who owns a performace VW garage locally did a swap in a new beetle, they dropped in a VR6 - it came back dead about 3 months after the swap. The driver lost oil from not tightening the pan drain bolt and tried drag racing, needless to say, the engine siezed on the spot, it cost him big time to replace the VR6 a second time.
Keep cool, don't get too frustrated - you'll get it taken care of.
jettadude
10-12-2004, 10:27 PM
its a 88. the sensor i had was froma 90 cabby! so its VW. but i put the stock one back and its still doing it. i read on my manual it says if the light comes on above 2,000 rpms its not getting the amount of pressure it should so. i can rev it up to 4 real quick and let it die off, but when i try to hold a steady rpm about 2300rpms it goes off. so i figure it is the pump. im not leaking any oil i checked the sensor, drain plug and filter, all on tight. so please keep em comming in. but im thinking about putting in a 2.0 oil pump. i heard this will be better then a stock replacement.
Optigman
10-12-2004, 11:15 PM
Boy the site is slooooowwww....
Sounds like you have the problem isolated, since I don't know your experience with replacing the oil pump, I'll try to author a quick DIY for you, and if you already know the drill, this might help someone else.
First is to safely support the front of the car on jack stands, this is very important for safety reasons along with removing the positive battery cable. I support the car on the sub frame or cross member just behind the engine close to the outside without resting on the A arm. Once the car is up in the air your going to need to do the following: 1 loosen the bolts that mate the transmission to the block and remove the oil pan. 2 You have to move the transmission sightly away from the block to access the oil pan bolts at the transmission side. 3 You have to unbolt the oil pump and replace.
First you'll need a floor jack and a piece of wood to support the transmission during this process, put the jack closser to the outside so it is out of your way.
Drain the oil. There are 2 19mm bolts at the top of the transmission, loosen them but do not remove them the whole way, you want to leave about one turn in to keep the transmission from pulling too far away from the block. Loosen the third 19mm bolt located at the bottom rear of the engine near the drive axle flange, again do not completely remove it. Last remove the two allen bolts from the starter and the 17mm bolt that mates the front engine mount.
Once the transmission has room, use a small pry bar or screw driver to slide the transmission away from the block about 1/2".
Now you have access to all 20 10mm bolts for the oil pan. After you remove all the bolts, lower the oil pan out of the way.
The oil pump is right there, 2 13mm bolts will allow you to remove it.
You need to try to remember in what position the tang or blade is pointing on top of the oil pump. This is important because it must fit in the groove in the distributor to function. Replace the pump and tighten, I don't have that torque setting memorized. Replace the oil pan gasket, pan, and bolts. These have a torque spec of about 18 ft lbs.
Tighten the 3 19mm block bolts to 58 ft lbs. I don't torque the starter or 17mm bolt. Just get them tight.
Lower the trans jack and the car, reconnect the + battery cable, fill with your favorite flavour of engine fluid and you should be ready to go.
I hope this helps, I'm sure I forgot something, it's really late and I had every intention to go to bed about 2 hours ago.
Good Luck!
miamiDaveGLi
10-12-2004, 11:20 PM
AHHHHHHH relief the site is a lot faster now !!! thanks cody!
yeah i heard a upgrade to a 2.0 pump pretty much solves all the pressure problems.
jettadude
10-12-2004, 11:29 PM
wow damn dude thanks for the DIY. im very good under the hood, ive torn apart a 1.8 allready. but i don't all of it like the back of my hand, i knew what to do but the tranny and the fan blade stuff i didn't know so thanks ton. and where are you in PA when i get the car back up hell ill stop by just to thank ya. im in bethlehem.
Optigman
10-13-2004, 07:13 AM
I'm between Lancaster and York. I was up in Bethleham two years ago doing charitable work through my employer. I can't tell you what part of town, I'm not familiar with that area.
Hopefully today my '86 will be running again, new rings arrive today and I should have it back together this afternoon.
Let me know how that 2.0L pump works, it may be worth the investment to put in mine.
burn_your_money
10-13-2004, 10:10 AM
Do you guys know if it would be worth my while to swap a better oil pump into my (I don't own it yet) 84 diesel rabbit? I'm planning on swapping trannys so everything would be right there.
miamiDaveGLi
10-13-2004, 10:16 AM
Do you guys know if it would be worth my while to swap a better oil pump into my (I don't own it yet) 84 diesel rabbit? I'm planning on swapping trannys so everything would be right there.
well i dont know much about diesels but i woud say while you have easy access to it take full advantage and swap it out.
if it is the original pump its prolly a little tired .
just my 2 cents.
burn_your_money
10-13-2004, 10:42 AM
I have no idea about anything on this car, the guy didn't keep reciepts. Apparently farmers don't do things like that.
jettadude
10-13-2004, 01:17 PM
ok guys i just thought of this and its been raking my brain. ok everything thing that is wrong with my car is leading to my pump. but since i put the old sensor back in and it still did that same crap, that means my old sensor going to my gauge is not bad. so then i relized that when the light would go off i would look at my gague and it shows that i have plenty of pressure. like its about 2BAR. if you wanna see my gagues go to my car domain there a pic of them on there. so i have this ? for ya. what is after the sensor? what makes the buzzer go off? maybe that could of shorted out or somthing.
burn_your_money
10-13-2004, 02:16 PM
I think it's a piece inside the cluster. If you check the "handy page for the DIYer" I posted in the MK2 section, you should see what I mean. I'll try and get you the link and post it here.
burn_your_money
10-13-2004, 02:22 PM
http://www.4130-products.com/step/odometer/index.htm
just open up the page, hold CTRL and then F. then type in oil, hit enter and presto
jettadude
10-13-2004, 05:16 PM
nice thanks tyler
burn_your_money
10-13-2004, 06:41 PM
Glad to help. If you need the part I have one for the extremely expensive price or shipping (may or may not be a joke) :?
jettadude
10-13-2004, 08:29 PM
what is the part, just the circut board?
burn_your_money
10-13-2004, 09:29 PM
Yeha i am pretty sure thats all it is.
jettadude
10-13-2004, 09:56 PM
tyler find out how much to send it to me. my zip code is 18017 in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania USA.
burn_your_money
10-13-2004, 10:19 PM
Will do tomorrow.
vBulletin® v3.7.1, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.