Newbie questions

[bmor]

I just bought a 95 Jetta GL (TD 1.9L) 225,000 km.. I live in Vancouver B.C. and the vehicle has 5 sp manual and is currently running straight diesel. I am considering trying biodiesel but first I think I should learn where the fuel filter is!

Issues with this vehicle include a slightly noisy wheel bearing, trunk won't open except for the glove compartment release button and a broken handle on the glove box (have to open it with the key). Other than that I am liking this vehicle a lot so far.

I'm wondering; What's the best web sites, printed manuals etc. for maintaining and fixing this vehicle? Is the wheel bearing replacement a hard job? I am really liking the interior and the sound stock factory VW stereo system and am looking forward to a long life together with her.

[bmor]

...the light in the dash showing speed and RPM isn't working. Hopefully just a bulb, manual doesn't show a fuse for this function. Update: Rear defogger doesn't seem to be working, fuse however is fine...

[twig]

well. sounds like some familiar problems.

is the bearing problem in the front or the rear? and for the trunk, i've heard that some locks can be reset so that the key you have will work in it (can someone verify?)

biodiesel wouldn't be such a bad idea for you to run (make sure you do research though) because you live in a nice moderate climate of Canada.

you can also buy a new handle for the glove box either from the dealer or check out a wreckers for parts. that's a really easy job to do.

and this is the best website on the net for references to other sites for vw stuff.

[Mr_Diesel]

I just bought a 95 Jetta GL (TD 1.9L) 225,000 km.. I live in Vancouver B.C. and the vehicle has 5 sp manual and is currently running straight diesel. I am considering trying biodiesel but first I think I should learn where the fuel filter is!

Issues with this vehicle include a slightly noisy wheel bearing, trunk won't open except for the glove compartment release button and a broken handle on the glove box (have to open it with the key). Other than that I am liking this vehicle a lot so far.

I'm wondering; What's the best web sites, printed manuals etc. for maintaining and fixing this vehicle? Is the wheel bearing replacement a hard job? I am really liking the interior and the sound stock factory VW stereo system and am looking forward to a long life together with her.

Okie dokie... first things first. Fuel filter. It looks like an "oil filter" under the hood on the left hand side (passenger side).... Here is a pic for reference. Sorry for the crudity of this picture but the fuel filter and flange design is the same:

http://server10.myebiz.com/dubnet/engbay.jpg

The FRONT wheel bearing: On a 1-10 scale I would rate it 7 on difficulty. You might consider an oil change as 1 and a clutch job as 10. The front wheel bearing is a "pressed in" style bearing. Which means you need a press to replace the bearing. You can just buy the whole hub assembly... various auto parts dealers sell them, but my favorite place for a hub assembly is VW parts place Michigan:

Their site: http://www.partsplaceinc.com/
Catalog: http://www.partsplaceinc.com/catalog/P%20Catalog%202006/index.htm

The hub assembly is on page 117 of said catalog. For your car the hub assembly should be around 100 bucks plus a core charge of probably 30. Get the PN from the catalog and give them a call on Tuesday to get a price. You might consider calling the local auto parts stores to get a price and availibility on those.

You could also have a shop replace the wheel bearing. They will likely charge you a lot more than the cost of a hub assembly.

The tools needed to replace the hub assembly are just normal metric sockets. Sizes 10mm-19mm and a 30mm socket for the axle bolts. You may also need a Torx T-40 for the caliper bolts. Mark the original hub assembly with a paint pen or spray paint for reference noting the exact placement of the strut on the hub assembly to make sure you get your camber correct in reassembly. Ensure you don't move the threads on the tie rod or you may need to get an alignment when you are done with the project. The whole process should take about 1-2 hours if you have mechanics experience... Possibly longer if you need to figure things out.

As for the trunk lock.... I know there are 2 or positions for the lock. One position is LOCKED where it won't work if you push the exterior trunk button, but the electric button inside will still work. 2. UNLOCKED. Depressing the exterior button will open the trunk as will the electric interior button. The key cylinder here doesn't work like it does in other cars. It is unnecessary to have the key in the lock to open the trunk with the exterior button when in this position. I guess you could think of this as the same way as locking or unlocking a door.

This is a poor description, but you may find a better description on the function in the owner manual. Anyway, it just may be that the key is in the locked position. Give that a try and let me know if that works.... If not we'll explore other options.

Next... Literature. GET THE BENTLEY BOOK. It's the Volkswagen bible! Anything you could ever want to know about any part on the car is explained in verbose details in the Bible. Assembly / Disassembly, VW Part #'s, tools required, etc... This is a Chilton's book times 1,000,000. If you want to work on your car yourself, this is a absolute necessity. Here is the one for your car:

http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Jetta-Golf-GTI-1993-1999/dp/B000AOZAT2/ref=sr_1_1/102-1488798-8274539?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1188717710&sr=8-1

Biodiesel. You can run any blend of biodiesel you want. B100, if you like. Biodiesel has no effect on your car and it will not hurt the engine or fuel components in any way, shape or form. You MIGHT experience leaking issues with old rubber fuel lines when switching to biodiesel... If they leak, they should be replaced anyway. You live in a "moderate" climate, which means you should be good to run biodiesel any time of the year. Possibly run B-50 in the 2 coldest months of the year. If you are talking about veggie oil conversion, that takes some work and is a topic all in it's own.

The light bulb in your gauge cluster. I hope I understand you correctly... are you talking about the night time gauge illumination? Bulbs burning out are a common thing on any car, this car is no exception. Removing the cluster you will find 2 bulbs on the top of the cluster. They are black plastic. The bulb "housing" sort of looks like a nut or screw. 1/4 turn will remove them. Those bulbs are about $1.00 at the dealer. You won't find them anywhere else.... Possibly VW parts place if you scour the catalog. The cluster can be removed by "popping off" certain trim pieces on the dash surrounding the cluster. Use a flat screwdriver and gently pry the smaller pieces off (DON'T FORCE ANYTHING!). Then pry the light switch out. Once those are out, that should reveal screws to take out the BIG piece. Once the big piece is out 2 screws fasten the cluster to the dash board. Take those out and lean the cluster forward, towards you. This should reveal the bulb culprits. Remove them with needle nose pliers... or a TINY flat screwdriver. Put them back in accordingly.

As for sites for help and advice, I have to say Dubnet could be your best friend. Less people frequent this site vs others, but all you have to do is ask and I (or somebody else) will go to work for you and research the topic as I have in this post.

Anyway... WELCOME to Dubnet. I have to say I am jealous of your new purchase because we don't get those cars in the states. (the mechanical 1.9TD). We've got TDI's galore, but my heart lies in the old mechanical monsters. My favorite VW engines. Anyway... good luck and keep me posted.

[bmor]

wow... that's an awesome reply. Glad to hear you like the vintage of my purchase. Also the suspect wheel bearing is on the front right I believe.

Thanks so much. No doubt Ill be posting again!;)

[Mr_Diesel]

Keep us posted and let's see some pictures of the project!

[bmor]

well yesterday I drove to Whistler and back for some fun seeing as how it was the last day of the bike park season. I noticed she was a little noisy when i got home but I was wet and tired. This morning I realized I had a broken fan belt so I waited an hour till 8am for the auto parts to open, bought a belt and proceeded to wait again till 8:30 for the auto shop to open. Mechanic broke the news to me that my water pump was toast, so now (new serpentine belt, water pump anti-freeze) + tax (Canada tax I might add) $350 later the motor sounds good and runs real nice [touch wood].

[bmor]

http://photos.nsmb.com/showimage.php?i=17190&c=12
http://photos.nsmb.com/showimage.php?i=17189&c=12

[twig]

nice car. nice and clean

[bmor]

are you fellas in agreement with 'if you start running biodiesel you should carry a spare fuel filter' ? If so are there any other spare parts I should have on hand?

[bmor]

after last weeks water pump and serpentine belt replacement, on Saturday I decided to do an engine cleaning using spray on degreaser and a light hosing.

Now I have a rattling noise that seems to be coming from the water pump, timing belt(?) area. It's pretty loud, but seems to have no effect on driving. It's most prominent at idle and really low speed. Under a load, driving that is, it does not seem to be much of an issue. I'll take that as a good thing.

I've removed the plastic cover and the belt seems to be in ok shape,...

http://photos.nsmb.com/showimage.php?i=17253&c=12

I can only describe the noise as being like marbles rattling around in a tin pail or something (lol):cry:

also I'm noticing this black plastic thing that looks like something (hose?) should possibly connect to it?

http://photos.nsmb.com/showimage.php?i=17254&c=12

[Mr_Diesel]

It depends on your definition of "Bio Diesel" are you going to make it yourself or buy it from a fuel company? Like I said earlier... there is also a BIG difference between bio diesel and WVO.

[bmor]

to start I'b be buying B50 at a local cardlock. I'm interested in the grease kits in the future. I know you mentioned gas lines may leak and need to be replaced. Others have mentioned carrying a spare fuel filter.
Thanks for the input.