jettadude
05-09-2006, 09:49 PM
ok i did many many searches for a how to do this damn thing and all i got was unbolt and jack up the motor. uhhh duh i know that. so i spent a few hours and did it myself. My old trans mount will get pic of later was destroyed. broken reallly bad. i pulled it in half and the rubber was torn. so here is the best way to do this i found.
Tools needed.
floor jack, 2 jack stands, 13mm socket 5/8 ratchet and 17mm socket.
now jack up the car on the drivers side and take off drivers side front wheel.
pull off that splash guard. the covers the tranny and the inside wheel well.
now you have 3 bolts to undo. first i did the 2 small ones the hold the mount to the subframe. the one closes to the fire all i did from above the motor. it is a 13mm and you need a small extention. now you have no room to work and if it is stuck you have no real leverage. so hit everything with PB blaster or luquid wrench. now i had you pull the spash guard off for the reason of just not pull the trans mount of the bottom but in the case you can get it un stuck take you lug wrench out of your trunk, in my case under the drivers seat. pull of the screw driver and slip it over your ratchet handle and pull. now with the spash guard off you can use the 8" of space to loosen the bolts by pull them between the tranny and the master cylinder.
once you have that one out take out the one closest to the drivers wheel. the space opend up by taking out the splash guard makes this really easy. then start prying at the top bolt. now mine shered off halfway inside the mount lucky for me cuz i had a 4' prybar turning it the 3" i could with the damn thing. so i had to drive to my local vw junkyard and get a new bolt but anyhow don't do that. how since the master cylinder sits so damn close to the trans mount you have to use 5/8 ratchet and a low pro socket. non deep. the side is 17mm i think.
so once you have that done. you need to take your jack stands and put them under the front subframe. one of each side to hold up the car since the wheel is off.
now take out the front motor mount bolt. i think that is also a 17mm if not its an 18mm i have no clue you will have to find out. but take that out so you can jack up the motor.
now people said to jack up on the oil pan useing a block of wood. NO not for the tranny mount. for the front and rear motor mounts yes but the tranny mount the motor needs to go up more and you don't want to have to unbolt your rear mount. so put the jack under the diff case. not the tranny bell houseing the diff case. its farther back. its what the axles bolt to. now you can only jack it up untill the axel hits the controll arm. don't keep jacking it you will seperate the cv joint on your drivers side. now my boot got streched but as long as you don't hear it pop or anything you good. j/k but don't over jack. jack it up till the axel hits the controll arm or the trannys hits the bottom of the battery case. youll know it and hear it. don't worry it wont hurt it just keep an eye out. now go back to the tranny mount and it should just clear the cup. i mean just clear by you prolly have to play with it to get it out of there. and slide it out betweek the body and the inner cv boot. you can't pull it up not enough clearence.
reinstall the new mount i used a g60 solid rubber mount. $20 from black forest ind. i rebolted it to the frame before i lower the motor.
lower the motor. re bolt in the front mount, you might have to realign your motor a bit by just pulling the crap out of it till it moves for ya. get that bolt in good then rebolt the tranny to the new mount. reinstall the spash guard and tire. lower the car and yoru good. go driveing. now recheck your mounts in 100miles to let them reseat or anything. they might loosen back up a bit.
but that is how to do a vr6 trans mount. and yes it is a PITA
Tools needed.
floor jack, 2 jack stands, 13mm socket 5/8 ratchet and 17mm socket.
now jack up the car on the drivers side and take off drivers side front wheel.
pull off that splash guard. the covers the tranny and the inside wheel well.
now you have 3 bolts to undo. first i did the 2 small ones the hold the mount to the subframe. the one closes to the fire all i did from above the motor. it is a 13mm and you need a small extention. now you have no room to work and if it is stuck you have no real leverage. so hit everything with PB blaster or luquid wrench. now i had you pull the spash guard off for the reason of just not pull the trans mount of the bottom but in the case you can get it un stuck take you lug wrench out of your trunk, in my case under the drivers seat. pull of the screw driver and slip it over your ratchet handle and pull. now with the spash guard off you can use the 8" of space to loosen the bolts by pull them between the tranny and the master cylinder.
once you have that one out take out the one closest to the drivers wheel. the space opend up by taking out the splash guard makes this really easy. then start prying at the top bolt. now mine shered off halfway inside the mount lucky for me cuz i had a 4' prybar turning it the 3" i could with the damn thing. so i had to drive to my local vw junkyard and get a new bolt but anyhow don't do that. how since the master cylinder sits so damn close to the trans mount you have to use 5/8 ratchet and a low pro socket. non deep. the side is 17mm i think.
so once you have that done. you need to take your jack stands and put them under the front subframe. one of each side to hold up the car since the wheel is off.
now take out the front motor mount bolt. i think that is also a 17mm if not its an 18mm i have no clue you will have to find out. but take that out so you can jack up the motor.
now people said to jack up on the oil pan useing a block of wood. NO not for the tranny mount. for the front and rear motor mounts yes but the tranny mount the motor needs to go up more and you don't want to have to unbolt your rear mount. so put the jack under the diff case. not the tranny bell houseing the diff case. its farther back. its what the axles bolt to. now you can only jack it up untill the axel hits the controll arm. don't keep jacking it you will seperate the cv joint on your drivers side. now my boot got streched but as long as you don't hear it pop or anything you good. j/k but don't over jack. jack it up till the axel hits the controll arm or the trannys hits the bottom of the battery case. youll know it and hear it. don't worry it wont hurt it just keep an eye out. now go back to the tranny mount and it should just clear the cup. i mean just clear by you prolly have to play with it to get it out of there. and slide it out betweek the body and the inner cv boot. you can't pull it up not enough clearence.
reinstall the new mount i used a g60 solid rubber mount. $20 from black forest ind. i rebolted it to the frame before i lower the motor.
lower the motor. re bolt in the front mount, you might have to realign your motor a bit by just pulling the crap out of it till it moves for ya. get that bolt in good then rebolt the tranny to the new mount. reinstall the spash guard and tire. lower the car and yoru good. go driveing. now recheck your mounts in 100miles to let them reseat or anything. they might loosen back up a bit.
but that is how to do a vr6 trans mount. and yes it is a PITA