Turbo project?

[GoodDayForADrive]

So here's the thing.. I have trouble saving up for a turbo kit.. so I want to start putting one together on my own, buying pieces at a time. Anyhow, I pretty much know zero about turbos, what parts I need, how it all goes together, but I'm a pretty quick learner, and it doesn't seem all that complicated if I could just learn it. So I'd like all your help as in, what sort of piping, BOV, turbo, etc that I should get, and how to get it all working.

Just a few things I'm not clear on (for starters):
Where does the the line from tapping the oil pan lead into on the turbo setup?

Diesel once said to get the BOV as close to the throttle body as possible, why is that?

Could the stock chip handle the turbo? If not, what chips would you suggest? I hear garrett is could for customizing, and I'm assuming they could program for a turbo.


This is just for starters.. I'd like to buy the turbo as the first item, so if anyone could suggest good turbos for a 2.0 that'd be cool.

Thanks guys!! I may have owned a VW for over 2 years now, but I'm still a noob :lol:

[muppet]

The tap on the pan is where the oil from the turbo drains into. You can use one of the plugged holes on the filter housing for your oil feed.

Drain:
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/2543/oildrainonpan3ha.jpg

Feed:
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/4167/oilfeedfilterhousing2wi.jpg


The stock chip could be used with the addition of an fmu for very low boost, but its frowned upon. If you are putting this in your 97 jetta go with C2 motorsports they are pretty much the undisputed best in the business. They have a setup for #30 injectors which is what I have, and a setup for #42 injectors.

The T3 super 60 was reccomended to me and thats what I ended up with. I am happy with it. It spools at about 3000 rpm and pulls hard in every gear. Just make sure you get something of decent quality like garrett or turbonetics.

[GoodDayForADrive]

Did you tap the oil pan yourself? And if I ask C2 about the chip, think they will know what I need? Don't know what you mean by the numbered injectors :?

[GoodDayForADrive]

Hmm... I was searching through the FI forums on the tex, and came across this http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2248341&page=1

I might just hafta get one of those first... :lol:

[muppet]

The pan is from atp turbo, and C2 will know what you mean. They only offer 2 chips for the obdII 2.0l engine. Your injector size depends on your power goals and boost pressure.

[Mr_Diesel]

Just make sure you get something of decent quality like garrett or turbonetics.

Keep it german... get a KKK!!!! find a audi 5000 turbo and manifold... I paid less for a turbo in almost mint condition and a manifold that will fit any 8V for less than somebody would pay for their intake plumbing.

The audi 5k has the KKK K26 which is a really good turbo. It's water cooled, and oil lubricated. This turbo will last you a lot longer than a oil lubed/cooled turbo. I got my k26 from that audi that has 240,000 miles on it, and there was NO shaft play, and it spun freely.

Start with that. Get that turbo and manifold, that shouldnt cost you more than $150. Then you'll need to visit www.eurospeed.ca and get the oil return and feed fittings for the turbo. All in all I think i can build a turbo system for an 8V for less than $250. I don't plan on modifying my transmission, so I'll keep it under 175whp, and I know this turbo can do it, and do it very efficiently.

Good luck.

[GoodDayForADrive]

Just make sure you get something of decent quality like garrett or turbonetics.

Keep it german... get a KKK!!!! find a audi 5000 turbo and manifold... I paid less for a turbo in almost mint condition and a manifold that will fit any 8V for less than somebody would pay for their intake plumbing.

The audi 5k has the KKK K26 which is a really good turbo. It's water cooled, and oil lubricated. This turbo will last you a lot longer than a oil lubed/cooled turbo. I got my k26 from that audi that has 240,000 miles on it, and there was NO shaft play, and it spun freely.

Start with that. Get that turbo and manifold, that shouldnt cost you more than $150. Then you'll need to visit www.eurospeed.ca and get the oil return and feed fittings for the turbo. All in all I think i can build a turbo system for an 8V for less than $250. I don't plan on modifying my transmission, so I'll keep it under 175whp, and I know this turbo can do it, and do it very efficiently.

Good luck.

audi 5000 manifold bolts right up?

[Mr_Diesel]

The audi 5000 manifold will bolt up to any 8V vw... Not sure about late model and very early rabbits and such, but all mkII and mkII 8V's it will bolt right up.

The audi 5k engine is 5 cylinder, so there is an extra port. The manifold can be modified by any exhaust shop... They can cut off the extra port and weld a small piece in it's place. Lots of people do it... I can get you pictures of mine as soon as my camera is working.

[GoodDayForADrive]

The audi 5000 manifold will bolt up to any 8V vw... Not sure about late model and very early rabbits and such, but all mkII and mkII 8V's it will bolt right up.

The audi 5k engine is 5 cylinder, so there is an extra port. The manifold can be modified by any exhaust shop... They can cut off the extra port and weld a small piece in it's place. Lots of people do it... I can get you pictures of mine as soon as my camera is working.

Could just get my mom to cut it off with her plasma cutter :lol:

[Mr_Diesel]

Doesnt matter how you cut it off, just make sure a qualified welder makes the patch, or you'll fubar the manifold.

[Mr_Diesel]

Diesel once said to get the BOV as close to the throttle body as possible, why is that?

Could the stock chip handle the turbo? If not, what chips would you suggest? I hear garrett is could for customizing, and I'm assuming they could program for a turbo.

By placing the BOV far away from the throttle body, this creates a delayed response... tho very minimal, sometimes int he 100ths of a second, this can adversely affect the performance of your blow off valve, and can cause significant pressure drops when you need the boost the most.

A blow off valve operates like such... The turbo is pushing full boost, and BAM! you shift and you are suddenly off the accelerator... Well, the turbo keeps pushing, and there is no where for the turbo to go... Some say this "can ruin your turbo" I strongly disagree that it will ruin the turbo, cause there are millions of turbo cars running around without them right now. Anyway, a blow off valve operates when a sudden spike in boost is accumulated in the intake plumbing. The blow off valve opens up at a set PSI, usually much much higher than your stock boost settings... I was once told they open at around 30psi? Anyway, this provides an outlet for this built up boost. No, it will not ruin your turbo but the back pressure from this built up boost will slow down the turbo, causing extra precious time for the turbo to spool and get back to where it was before it got whacked with serious boost that it could not handle.

In one sentence this is how I would describe a BOV...

A device used in conjunction with a number of other performance turbo parts which when used all together help a turbo system become more efficicient.

Other people use them because they "sound cool", and they really don't know what they are for. Anybody that says they are used to protect the turbo is an idiot.

Now, back to your original question, the BOV needs to be as close to the TB as possible. This will cause the BOV to react much more quickly when you close your TB suddenly, and it will help prevent suddent pressure drops when you rhomp back on it when you shift into your next gear. Use the BOV correctly, and it will help you.

I'm not going to use one yet for the following reasons:

1. BOV's are way too expensive.
2. They complicate intake plumbing
3. My simple turbo system is going to make more boost than my tranny is going to handle anyway... Once again, keeping it simple. Complexity in basic street daily drivers is redundant and lowers reliability.

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Your stock chip will handle 4-6 psi safely. Even with this stock chip I would still look into FMU (fuel managment unit). This device increases fuel pressure with boost. They are pretty pricey, but purchase one and you won't regret it.

You WILL break your tranny if you push more than 6 or 7 psi. It might not be right away, but you will break the transmission eventually. The 2.0L and mated tranny are engineered for ECONOMY. They are NOT performance equipment, and they WILL fail if you try to run them as such. Before you push more boost than 5 or 6 psi, you should build your tranny to suit the extra power.



Last but not least. Just remember you drive an economy car. If you skimp, it will NOT be reliable, and you will find yourself stuck in the middle of an intersection with a busted transmission and you still lost the race. Do it right. Don't cut corners. Fuel management and drivetrain are the keys with 2.0's. The 2.0L aba has been known to make 300hp, but just remember the work and the planning that went into getting that car there.