Gifted 1984 Rabbit GTI

[blackbeardSCBC]

You can also engage in the original posting of this, here (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2081933)

I know very little about the history of Rabbit GTIs and this car in particular. I have alot of questions, and I am very reserved about doing anything in addition to a perfect+ stock restoration in and out and a non reflective but seriously protecting paint job. My dad left the country and gave me his Rabbit GTI, which he got from his brother in law who left it to him after leaving the o****ry as well. I'm not going to leave this baby to anyone if and/or when I leave the country, nor am I going to neglect her as much as they did. Just basic city driving for the past 10 years on her, she has 103,999 and is running fine with the exception of the mass vibrations in the ****pit. =)

I replaced the clutch cable (OEM), distributor cap (OEM), plug wires(kragen krap), and plugs (kragen krap) while my dad had her because he is a ninny, and she passed smog the other day. Sadly, she is still out of it a bit since sitting outside doing nothing with a battery connected for 3 months.

First question is, would everyone please post links to sites I can go to to get a history of my my specific vehicle?

Second, can everyone please post links to sites where I can get serious authoritive history on specifically the Rabbit GTI, with more emphasis on the Rabbit than it's alter-ego Golf Mk1?

Third, where can I frequently go in the 510 to get brand new Volks Germany OEM parts for her?

Fourth, I have to hotwire my car right now everytime I start it and am looking into replacements that will outperform and outlast OEM ignition system. Any suggestions, reccomendations?

Fifth, I really, really, really, want to put power windows and maybe one day a sunroof on her, but the latter is far off for now. Any input? At least please give me some suggestions on making the windows roll up and down eas supersmooth without 15lbs resistance, the non OEM window handles onlyh andle 10 and she has gone through 2 pairs of that "HELP!" kragen krap. Someone tell me where I can get the upholstry done in the nickel and dime!!!

Sixth, take a look at the pics, tell me what you think please.

I might put on some performance stuff like sway bars, K&N oil filter, neuspeed air intake/filter or whatever. STILL LEARNING BEAR WITH ME PLZ

I ordered the hayes, bentley, and chiltons manuals and they should be here next week. Does anyone know a good place for like new original manual for her?

http://www.yourupload.com/uploads/1e913-rabbit1.jpg
http://www.yourupload.com/uploads/1b938-rabbit2.jpg
http://www.yourupload.com/uploads/15d8a-rabbit3.jpg


Please feel free to check out my website for updates and donate to my car fund.

http://sublimenet.cjb.net/

BlackbeardSCBC

Since this was originally written, I got a new battery, made a remote starter with a momentary switch, decent gator clips and some 10g wire, replaced the transmission linkage bushings, replaced the hatch strut, replaced the driver's door latch, replaced a plastic anchor for the passenger door handle, replaced both passenger and driver's side outer door handles, slavagingonly 1 locking mechanism as it was theo nly that worked, cleaned under the hood really well, studied my Bentley, Chilton and Haynes manuals, and have become pretty aquainted with the local parts suppliers.

I would really appreciate any helpful suggestions, and I suggest you look at the original post before responding here, but if you don't feel like it, hey, thanks anyway.

I'm also in the market for some decent quality black snowflakes if anyone is offering...

[Mr_Diesel]

Hey man!!! That's quite the write up. That's pretty sweet what you are doing... I think it's okay to consider those Rabbits classic. Very cool, very rare car.

I have a bunch of ideas and information for you, but it'll have to wait till I am on my home computer... So here is a free bump for now...

Welcome to Dubnet too... Thanks for joining, and I hope you enjoy your stay in our forums.

[blackbeardSCBC]

Any reason why the bbcode for imgs isn't working?? I'm switching it to HTML now, but I think it's being parsed incorrectly. Don't know much about php though. Thanks for your support!

[blackbeardSCBC]

Update copied over from original post

7-11-2005
How do I NOT RICE my 84RGTI? Isn't that impossible unless I put on some supremely ignorant body kit? It's not like I can afford an engine computer, let alone want one. I don't get it. If the car is inherently German, I have German, French-Heugonaut, and Scottish Ancestry, and I intend to make it stock+ if there is such a thing, than how can I make it into an Azn auto? Moreover, I'd have to be really rich and stupid to try to make this beautiful Rabbit GTI into a Honda looking Volks folks.

Seriously though, anyone have any strategies for enhancing the performance and sustaining the life of her from stock?

I'm thinking, in order:
-Brand New OEM Starter
-Near New OEM Door Handles and Window Levers (ins and outs) from Pick and Pull in Oakland $30 + Lube from Kragen or something $5
-KN Air filter 33-2002
-KN Oil Filter HP-2005
-Fire extinguisher
-SS cables for water and brakes, what manufacturer?
-Get rid of full size black emergency wheel and replace with additional full size OEM wheel.


Extranneous Meanderings
-Cold Air Intake? Ideas?
-Short Shift or OEM? (There is excessive play in the transmission and the transmission cannot handle fast shifts, always grinds even when clutch in all the the way. I installed clutch myself and checked for too little tension already.) Neuspeed, Autotech or who?

Thanks...

[blackbeardSCBC]

copied over from 7-12-2005
Too bad there is no +K option on here So the sunroof idea is scrapped for a long time, and I am going to work on the windows before I attempt some kind of power window option. I have alot to do before it will ever reach that stage anyway, so...

I just saw the ABD power shifter, and it is at 39.99 on rpiequipped, looks sweet. I am a bit pissed about the malfunctioning state of that particular products page however, as it is the responsibility of any good web designer to check his or her work periodically and not be malfunct him or herself. What I don't understand is the same picture is used for the ABD short shift, and the ABD Power Shifter kits, yet the short shift kit, $69.95, is thirty dollars more. If the morei nfo link worked and they weren't using more js than they can manage, I would know the difference, but until then does anyone have any input?

What does anyone know about the 2.8l twin-cam specifically made for the Rabbit GTI??? There was only one place I could find that was reported to have it (Bronx, NY), but the guy told me "No good, we ain't got it."

I also want to know about experiences with biodiesel mods and biodiesel mods on the 2.8l twin-cam.

Cabby's??? That a tex user??

Any feedback on replacing all the mounts and doing a full oil-change, as well as surface cleaning under the hood? Any tactics, techniques and procedures for 84RGTI cleaning ops? I have come to realize that a shop-vac and clean short/no shag towels are standard equipment, but WD-40 on a qtip won't cut it for pin tip sized spots where paint was scratched and light rust has developed, and you all have more experience than I.

So it is final, I am doing the KN filters, getting new OEM hatch strut, shift knob, starter, window levers and cleaning/counterbending the window regulator and anything else impeding the steady smooth rollup and down of the windows. Going to get a new tube and set of tires soon too, so I'll have the original wheel back on the right rear, as right now it's the full sized spare that is aesthetically displeasing.

What about power steering? Excessive?

[blackbeardSCBC]

copied over from 7-12-2005

"hold the window as you put it up, push it towards the front as you crank"

My dad did it, I do it, and if I don't fix it now, my kid might have to, and that is not something I can live with.

"STAY AWAY FROM ANY AND ALL AFTERMARKET SUNROOFS"

Will do. Long way off anyway.

Any reccomended motor mounts (OEM, aftermarket)?

"maybe a shifter rebuild"

Why not replace the whole thing with an aftermarket kit? Wouldn't it be less expensive and more effective?

"stirring porridge" Exactly.

The starter is just dead, I think the coil is still good, but it wouldn't hurt to take a look at it's age while I am under there. I will eventually get a new OEM Bosch starter, but right now the whole momentary pushbutton ignition is kind of fun and cool. I am using autolite wires right now and they seem to work really well, despite the kragen krap origin, with the new OEM distributor cap I put in while my dad was neglecting her.

I need a whole new drivers upper half of the seat, as my dad got pissed and took a hammer to the wire frame because after the seat got mangled from his beefy ass the metal frame was offensive. The whole side of it is exposed. Gotta pull all those burger king napkins his sister put in there out as well. I hope I don't find ranch sauce in the brake fluid reservoir. JK

What about the liners though? it's all hanging and looks like shise. I'll get all the stats up on here after I do full cleaning and inventory. So far I have logged 4 hours flight time in her and at least 12 in work and cleaning.

[blackbeardSCBC]

copy over from 7-12-2005

Ok, so parts list for coming weekend wars...

-my tools, my bentley, hayes and chilton manuals of course and...

-KN air filter
-bosch oil filter
-oil recycling panreservoir, cleanup supplies
-good oil (any suggestions? what's the deal with synthetics?)
-premium tank of gas (she has been run on only premium since 98)
-new window levers
-new outdoor handles (they are decomposing, any suggestions on weather protection?)+rekeying of all locks to one key (I'm using two already)
-new pedals (all the plastic caps on existing stock one's are gone)
-new OEM original shifter knob
-new lids on reservoirs
-new tubes and tires
-maybe replace full sized spare with additional original full size wheel so she's never wearing mismatched shoes
-new injector o-rings
-new motor mounts (poly or OEM??? suggestions?)
-new plugs
-new OEM o2 sensor
-repairing and improving window operability
-ss cables
-OEM rear shelf lift straps
-OEM rear shelf or home made
-tamper resistant door handle guards
-fire extinguisher
-super cleaning of all under the hood

[blackbeardSCBC]

copy over from 7-14-2005

Current lists without window levers

Actual List:

Rabbit Bosch CIS fuel injector puller Easily removes fuel injectors without stressing fuel lines. Pulls on the injector body, not the fuel line. Works on most by using a large screwdriver as a lever against the valve cover. 6.30
Rabbit Pad, pedal. Rubber pad for clutch pedal. 1.84
Rabbit Shift linkage rebuild kit, ***5 speed trans only*** Includes bushings, neoprene washers, selector rods and relay lever 16.80
Rabbit Seal ring, fuel injector. Green Viton rubber. 16x6x5mm One required per injector 1.31
Rabbit Spark plug, Bosch W7DTC. 3-electrode copper plug. 3.41
Rabbit Lift strut, hatch One required per car 19.43
Rabbit Without lock, re-use old lock. Genuine Hella. Door handle, left front. 15.75
Rabbit Without lock, re-use old lock. Genuine Hella. Door handle, right front. 15.75
Rabbit Trim piece, center of door handle. Matte black plastic. Fits new replacement handles only. 1.31
Rabbit Gasket, door handle. Small end 2.45
Rabbit Gasket, door handle. Large end 2.45
Rabbit Air filter, K&N high performance re-useable High flow filter, oiled cotton fabric sandwiched between pleated aluminum screen wires. Typical cleaning interval 30,000 to 50,000 miles in street use. Comes pre-oiled and ready to install. Fits in original air filter housing w/ no modifications required. 34.65
Subtotal: $141.82 + $10-15 SH

Sweet List:

Rabbit Bosch CIS fuel injector puller Easily removes fuel injectors without stressing fuel lines. Pulls on the injector body, not the fuel line. Works on most by using a large screwdriver as a lever against the valve cover. 6.30
Rabbit Brake pad set, Pagid. A nice mild upgrade from stock pads, pre-baked to speed the bedding-in process. Front, set of 4 pads. One set required per car. 27.30
Rabbit Pad, pedal. Rubber pad for clutch pedal. 1.84
Rabbit Shift linkage rebuild kit, ***5 speed trans only*** Includes bushings, neoprene washers, selector rods and relay lever 16.80
Rabbit Seal ring, fuel injector. Green Viton rubber. 16x6x5mm One required per injector 1.31
Rabbit Spark plug, Bosch W7DTC. 3-electrode copper plug. 3.41
Rabbit Starter assembly. This is a new part, not rebuilt, no exchange necessary. ***Manual transmission only*** New starter, no exchange necessary. Improved high torque starter, may require change of connector plug for solenoid wire. 135.45
Rabbit Oxygen sensor, Bosch universal single wire. Has short length of wire and no connector. Requires splicing wire, we recommend using solder and shrink tubing rather than crimp-type splices. 27.30
Rabbit Lift strut, hatch One required per car 19.43
Rabbit Without lock, re-use old lock. Genuine Hella. Door handle, left front. 15.75
Rabbit Without lock, re-use old lock. Genuine Hella. Door handle, right front. 15.75
Rabbit Trim piece, center of door handle. Matte black plastic. Fits new replacement handles only. 1.31
Rabbit Gasket, door handle. Small end 2.45
Rabbit Gasket, door handle. Large end 2.45
Rabbit Braided stainless steel brake hose kit, 4 piece. High pressure 3-layer hose featuring Teflon inner hose covered with a Kevlar sheath and finally a braided stainless steel outer covering. DOT approved, street legal. Higher bursting strength and improved brake feel over stock rubber hoses. 67.00
Rabbit Air filter, K&N high performance re-useable High flow filter, oiled cotton fabric sandwiched between pleated aluminum screen wires. Typical cleaning interval 30,000 to 50,000 miles in street use. Comes pre-oiled and ready to install. Fits in original air filter housing w/ no modifications required. 34.65
Rabbit Recharger kit for K&N filter Includes 12oz spray bottle of cleaner, 6.5oz spray can of oil, and instructions. Good for several cleanings/oilings. 9.97
Subtotal: $408.84+SH

Of ocurse I probly won't get it all at once or from germanautopart.com because they are NY, but hey, it's a start. Now to figure out what ought to be got from pick and pull instead of brand new... =(

[GoodDayForADrive]

If the transmission is iffy, I wouldn't put a short shifter in. It'll tear it apart as it makes every shift a fast one. I have a short shifter on my car, and 2nd gear grind is slowly getting worse and worse, even after changing to GM Syncromesh transmission fluid, which is godly. It fixed it at first, but now the grind is slowly coming back again. I'm considering just replacing the transmission with a more heavy duty, maybe even race one, so when I do finally get some more money to modify the engine some more, I'll have the transmission to handle it. Be careful with short shifters.

[blackbeardSCBC]

I just called them up http://www.wolfsport.com/ and talked to the Mk1 guy Walt, he said they used to do alot of that, and is extremely knowledgable and helpful, but they are into the 5 years and younger scene now. =( That and my site host threatening to take the site down because of bandwidth probs is a bit depressing.

On the upside, I am saving alot more on parts, as wolfsport is quite inexpensive on the basic stuff and combined with my manuals that should be here soon, I should be able to get a good idea of possible fixes.

Call me an idiot, but why the heck does a radiator blow hot air!!?? Isn't it supposed to be air and water cooled?

[blackbeardSCBC]

copy over from 7-15-2005

Just stopped by McNevin Volks Dealer, German Auto Sport AKA Wolfsport AKA Recycled Rabbit, and Griffen Motorwerke.

Joe is an awesome guy at German Auto to talk to, and he is efficient, multitasking and everything... Terry at Griffin is the owner, and is quite knowledgable and practical about the past 20 years + worth of Volks/Audi. Jonh I believe his name is at the delaership parts dept. is quite helpful as well and even came out to look at my car without me asking just to identify the PNs of the clips that hold the volt/clock/temp dial module in place. Manufacturing on the package shelf, clips, and I believe the covers to the seat angle knobs has ceased, and salvage yards are where to go nowadays. I swear all the Rabbit owners should collaborate on A1 Rabbit only bentley quality manual with directories and such as well. Seems like restoring these is a lost art, more frequently made subject to supertuning and idiots who jerry-rig. (Not neccesarily related)

Of which, I got my Bentley manual today and had to go to the WC immediately after as a result, so I haven't even had a chance to open it. I need some 2-ton or greater jack stands or rampstand kind of things so I can install bushings on her, so if anyone wants to donate some or has a few extras they want to offload, let me know. Also let me know if anyone has an original wheel like mine with the hubcap in place and lugnuts as wel, as the full sized spare looks shoddy.

I bought a window lever, a driver's side door latch, shifter bushing kit (I have none right now), and ordered another window lever (even though the part the passenger side window lever screws on to is completely stripped inside and out because my dad thought using cheapo pliers or a vice grip, and then the wrong sized screw with those kragen krap "help!" levers, would work instead)

I asked the dealer parts guy if I could just buy that stripped part, but he said I have to replace the whole regulator. I so do not have the time and money for that right now.

I couldn't find the plastic anchor for the center armrest screw on the passenger side at german auto either, so I went to McNevin Parts and ordered one @ 1.35.

Still looking for original shifter knob with diagram in tact, driver's seat, package shelf, good upholstry place to do the roof and rear inside, and maybe seats too. I wonder when I replace the driver's seat if it would be cheaper to have the seats done in leather than it would be to buy a recaro. I bet 25 cents it would be, and it would look almost better...

Input wlecome...

[blackbeardSCBC]

copy over from 8-1-2005

Just got back from wolfsport again, picked up a hatch strut and door handle. The lock in the handle was missing a pin and the spring was jammed in the pinshaft, so it wouldn't work at all with the new handle. It would have worked with the handle I trashed I got from pick and pull in oakland. I also picked up a leather cabriolet steering wheel because they didn't have any GTI wheels and the grip on my wheel was defective. I did not consider however at the time that putting a functional steering wheel on a car that had not been alligned in years would leave me with a crooked wheel. So, now I have to get new tires, struts, brake pads, resurfacing and crossdrilling of my rotors or new ones, and maybe somesuperfluous but saucy stainless steel brake lines.

I want to get OEM Boges for now, as that is what was originally on the car, but I don't know what pads, lines, rotors and tires I want to get yet. Input requested.

So I picked up the hatch and door handle, but the strut didn't hold the hatch lid up, so I exchanged it for a stiffer and stronger one, but I locked myself out of the car, so busted out my leatherman and popped off the door handle trim, unscrewed the handle from the outside, and since it was already decomposing anyway and because I was late for work, I just snapped off the handle at the alloy anchor for the inside screw. Unlocked it and opened it in 10 seconds flat. I'm less experienced than those who can do it without breaking a handle undetected in three seconds, but hey, I was replacing it anyway and even a pick and pull handle was better than that one. (It had holes in it)

Replaced the handle stat with the above mentioned lock issue, and just used the lock assembly it came with. I am now contemplating if I should get all the locks (hatch and driver side) rekeyed to the new keys, or if I should get them keyed to the original VW key the car came with. I am kind of liking having three different keys though, but when the car could be opened in 5 seconds by an amateur with a 2 in 1 screwdriver, there really is no point to such a decent encryption scheme.

[blackbeardSCBC]

copy over from 8-5-2005

"there's a "pick your part" there with a pair of nice (not perfect, but nice) recaro's in a gti for 32 bucks a piece"

Please don't be so general, you have me hanging on the edge of my seat!

Do you mean pick and pull? There is one in Oakland and one in Richmond. I would love to know of others.

[blackbeardSCBC]

copy over from 8-10-2005

So my website is down and I figured that I can spend 9.95 for one year of a domain from http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/ and 83.40 a year for hosting from http://www.micfo.com/super.html which includes 40gb a month upload bandwidth, 1gb of storage space, a dedicated IP, 6 domains per host, unlimited subdomains, ftp access and unlimited pop3 email accounts. Think this is a good deal?

I want to be able to host those images again and other projects I work on. Any suggestions?

Also, I need new front struts, brake pads, and possibly resurfacing and crossdrilling of my rotors if they are still good. Any prices I should work with? I am going to get the boge OEM front struts and I want to know if 37 dollars a piece is a good price.

I also need to get a window regulator with an unstripped bolt, window track and tray assembly , or maybe two new doors altogther if less expensive and better quality. Where to go for replacements such as these?

New tires eventually as well, any suggestions?

[blackbeardSCBC]

copy over from 8-15-2005

Ok, so the Boge front struts come in on Monday. $60 for both, and they are part number 175-412-031, the USA struts, just like she came with. I am looking for soem decent condition black snowflake wheels too. After the struts, I am putting on something like the Yokohama AVS ES100s, and that was quoted at something like $250 installed. I am looking into rotors now as well, suggestions are welcome, as well as those for alternate tires. In the meantime, here's my shopping list of parts to aquire...

-$30.00 brake pads
-$70.00 resurfaced and cross drilled, or new, rotors

-$15.14 seat knob caps
-$35.06 shifter knob
-$34.88 ashtray for car
-$20.00 pt straps
-$14.00 door pins

-$2.34 timing cover cap
-$5.00 oil pressure switch
-$8.00 lower belt
-$8.00 upper belt

-$4.64 buffer (for motor mounts)
-$41.00 head gasket A4 (not cork)-McNevin
-$46.32 flange (for motor mounts)
-$46.44 motor mounts

-$10.00 grease
-$17.71 1 gallon VW coolant (phosphate free)
-$50.00 window regulator
-$57.68 window track
-$60.00 stainless steel brake lines

-$254.00 window seals

-$517.68 4 black brand new snowflake wheels OEM+wheel lock nuts

Most of these are prices I have cited from the dealership. Please offer alternate prices and products as suggestions which supersede my data...

[blackbeardSCBC]

copy over from 8-17-2005

Status report:
Just cleaned under the hood for the third time. Polished the engine and everything else with WD-40, spayed it all over the old belts and discs they turn on. Fired her up and she stably idles at around 1100rpm alot quiter and faster cold-starting than a few hours before. No idle or first gear squeak either! I still need new belts though. The idle rpm is little high, as I think it's supposed to be between 900 and 1000, but she sounded so smooth and I am not sure yet so I left her.

The struts haven't come in yet, but I'm putting in the Boge USAs. I am putting on those Yokohamas too, and sooner than later I will find someone with a decent price on great condition OEM black snowlflake wheels... Let me know if you have someone please!

As soon as I get those taken care of I want to take care of the brakes, SS lines, rotors and pads, and after that I am going to build a lifting package tray using decent wood, some fabric, staples, and the straps from farout.

Finally, when everything else is taken care of, I am going to put in new motor mounts, window seals, and a decent security and stereo system. Anyone ever seen keyless entry on a Rabbit? The latter is a while off, but I am opening it up to input so by the time I take care of it there will be a significant quanitity of information to choose from.

Also,
How do I recurve the distributor if I want to? I was told I by the head mechanic on his break at the local dealership I would get better firing and mileage if I do, but not to bend some part more than just a little. Details please.

Exhaust manifold?

What's the benefit of a diesel downpipe?

[blackbeardSCBC]

http://www.yourupload.com/uploads/2fe0e-rabbit5.jpg
http://www.yourupload.com/uploads/22f6a-rabbit6.jpg
http://www.yourupload.com/uploads/6a047-rabbit7.jpg
http://www.yourupload.com/uploads/5c7e9-rabbit8.jpg

[blackbeardSCBC]

Looking for some OEM black snowflakes as well...

Like these

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/mountaindub/rabbitw1.jpg

[jettadude]

wow, your doing your research, as i am not to familer with the Mk1 i seem to be learning allot from your posts. welcome to the forum. i can't wait to see how this ends up.

[NOok]

Hey man!!! That's quite the write up. That's pretty sweet what you are doing... I think it's okay to consider those Rabbits classic. Very cool, very rare car.


Far as i'm, conrcerned, they are the spark that strated the whole little import zoomy car fad long before the Type R.

[blackbeardSCBC]

yep, thanks for the positive feedback, keep it up...

[blackbeardSCBC]

I've got to part with my nearly restored 84 Rabbit GTI because I need the money and am starting a business that requires more transport space.

http://www.gowhitehat.com/K/84/rabbit11.jpg

3070 OBO

Price includes insurance, smog, and title transfer fees necessary for sale in Berkeley, California. Please bid on this only if you are going to appreciate her and/or restore her, I don't want her to end up like all the other 84 rabbits, turned into Euro golfs or Rally cars. Obviously I need the money more than the car, but it would be great to know she is going to a good home. More pictures available on request. This is in Berkeley, CA 94705. Email me kstipp(at)gowhitehat.com for questions or bids. The sale will end November 6, 2007 or when the high book is met, whichever comes first.

Synopsis:
This car's low book (before it wasn't posted on KBB anymore-2005) was 2000 and the high was 3500. The car retailed in 1984 for 8000. Given that the value has decreased by 285 to 215 dollars a year from 1984 to 2005, it is reasonable to say that a 1984 Rabbit GTI would now blue book from 1430 to 3070 depending on condition. This car is in as good, or better, condition as any 1984 Rabbit GTI I have seen for sale and I have done a lot of restoration, so I am asking high book OBO. Simply dropping in a new driver's seat and charging the battery will get you another 6000 miles (year or two) before restoring. Completely restored, it would be back to normal and run fine for another 5 to 10 years. It gets 25 city and 30 highway MPG, and is simply a fun drive.

What is right with it:
It passed smog last time I had to smog it. Repainted bumpers gloss black since this picture. I have done strictly stock replacements of the head gasket (poly now instead of cork), clutch cable, struts (6 months ago), air filter (new), 02 sensor, oil sensor, oil filter (1 year left on it), wiper blades, rims (FIVE of the last 10 snowflakes in the US in perfect cond.), and Mobil 1 synthetic oil about 1000 miles ago. Rebuilt transmission. Cleaned up and fixed alot of miswiring left over from previous owner. Dash, AC, and lighter lights work now, and the AC works too (needs recharge to cool). Newer tape deck and new front speakers. Save for the headliner and front seats, the original blue and red upholstery, 84 style trim, and generally is in great condition... It even has a package tray! I also reinforced the clutch mount bracket with more steel at joints so the bracket WILL NOT break from clutch pedal stress again. I went through about 10 10 gallon tanks of gas in 2 years at 25 mpg, so that is around 2500 miles put on it since I got it. City driving mostly, less than 2 mile trips. Have taken her on the freeway to refresh her and tuned her up consistently, so she purrs at 900rpm and can handle longer distances easily. New fuses for everything. Most receipts available, and includes the Bentley, hayes, and chilton manuals. Cleaned under the hood.

What is wrong with it:
The driver's seat frame is broken and MUST be replaced. The tachometer (occasionally), trip meter, and the VDO handbrake light doesn't work. (I took it to Palo Alto Speedometer to fix the odometer and it happened then, so they said they would work on it if I brought it back.) The odometer didn't work when I got it, but it does now, so although it counts, there may have been some unrecorded mileage put on her before I got it. Specks of rust on hood, edges of roof rain tray and lower right windshield corner (since caulked so stopped). Aged seals on front windows. Previous owner rigged new regulator shelves on OEM regulator for windows, so they have friction rolling up and down. Passenger side window lever mount teeth are stripped from previous owner using pliers so it won't roll up or down as is. Door pins need replacing with OEM pins, and doors need to be re-leveled to close and pop open like new. 4 keys, one for drivers, one for passenger's, one for trunk, and one for ignition. Original stereo gone and speakers need rewiring. DMV says it has to be smogged and insured before title transfer, and won't let me register it as inoperable until 2009 period.